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Does anyone have an electric pump mounted somehow that enables them to bleed the fuel system? If so , how?

Been changing all the fuel lines and filters, and not looking forward to working that lift pump to bleed it.

cheers,

frank

PS- does anyone else have a changeover solenoid with 3/8 supply lines and 5/16 return lines, whilst the tanks and engine fittings are all 5/16 supply and 1/4 return.  Presently changing the tank fittings over to match the solenoid.

The system used by owners of buses powered by 8V71 detroit 2 strokes is to just fit an electric pump in the suction line near the fuel tank. Most have a tap to bypass the pump for normal operation, but with some pumps the other pump will suck through the electric pump anyway.

Another method is to get a garden sprayer pressure pump and fit a suitable threaded fitting in place of the sprayer. Then either  temporarily disconnect the line leading to the lift pump, or some filters have a plug in the top that can be removed and the sprayer fitted to force fuel through the system.

How about unplugging the fuel tank vent line and use the air compressor to pressurise the fuel tank. Is it worth trying or is the cap vented.  Easy enough to check.  thanks for the pressure idea.

I've just changed the fuel filter element on the engine and also emptied and relocated the sedimenter under the truck and it only took about a dozen pumps before the sedimenter was full and the filter obviously had fuel in it as the engine started first go and then idled perfectly with a couple of minor fluctuations as air bubbles bled out. As we only had the one fuel tank (now two) I have run out twice in the last 12 months and it has only taken a few strokes to get the engine going again.

There is something wrong with my lift pump then. I changed the engine filter first and cracked the outlet pipe nut.  Took ages to get fuel to come out using the lift pump.  That's why I was wondering if there is an easier way, there was a lot of muck in the bottom of my sedimenter.  I don't know how it got past the inline filters, but it obviously did.  Only a little bit in the bottom of the two inline filters and even less in the engine filter.

Frank 210 was the same as Peters only a few pumps and away she went.

Greg

I have fitted an electric pump after the fuel tank plus an additional filter in the engine compartment nect to the HP pump that incorporates a hand pump.

In practice just cranking will prime the system if I run a tank dry or by cracking the bleed on the filter and turning the ignition on, the fuel will fill the system.

When I bleed 374 I've never cracked any fitting, just pump until it starts to get slightly harder and then fire it up, occasionally it might cough or stumble a couple of times but keeps running ok.

The electric pump down by the fuel tank is the go, gives a spare pump in case of failure in the bush. I have three fitted mainly for backup. The LIFT pump works as a push pump on the OKA.

Hi all, 365 had a rubber fuel primer pump off a boat fuel line on the suction line. I have never used it but I replaced my fuel lines awhile back and fitted a new boat primer pump. I have an electric transfer pump on the second tank that I could rig up if needed.

Ewart

I've never been a fan of allowing the engine to misfire while the fuel is being pumped through and the air eliminated. Sure it works, but the worry for me is that while air is in the injector pump, bugger all lubrication is happening.

I am cautious about how many times you can do this without damage to the pump.

These CAV 296 filters as fitted to the OKA are a pain because of all the gaskets and o-rings. I am giving serious consideration to replacing it with a screw-on type. This also cuts back the amount of bleeding that has to be done because the filter can be filled with CLEAN fuel prior to spinning on.

On my Oka I have a CAV filter for each tank. Between each filter and tank there is a boat type rubber hand pump. After changing the filter and cracking open the bleed screw/bolt it is just a matter of squeazing the pump a few times until it pours out. I haven't had any problems, it's cheap, easy to set up and reliable.

I don't like running the truck out either for the reasons Peter mentioned, the injection pump requires a steady supply of diesel to cool and lubricate it, unfortunately the twice I've run out there was not really any choice, no fuel available except what I could obtain from fellow travellers. Now I have two fuel tanks the situation should never arise again, the second tank contents are pumped into the main tank by an electric pump and I've fitted a second pump in the supply line to the engine to enable fuel to be pushed through when filters are changed.

This is the replacement for the CAV 296 cartridge type fuel filter. it is a direct bolt in replacement.

I thought I had gotten away from these 296's in the 70's when I was driving ACCOs. Impossible to change one without getting diesel spills/leaks somewhere. The cost of the replacement element is about 4 times the CAV but I'll wear that for the convenience. I bought mine here from the UK

I like the idea of the outboard fuel hand pump bulb thingy, I think I will put one of them on my shopping list.

Compressed air didn't really work the fuel cap leaks too much air.

The only problem with the spin on is I like to be able to see fuel (or water)  in the glass bowl of the CAV.  Although I noted that the one on mine is not a 'proper' CAV, it is just a sediment and water trap, no filter at all, and the 'O' rings that came with the CAV filter I bought didn't fit either.  Its a perkins unit according to the markings on the side of it. 

Frank

the standard setup is for a combined filter and water trap (glass bowl) on the side of the engine and a water trap only ( dummy filter and glass bowl) mounted on the plate next to the bell housing.

Although more is better I guess, I think the single water trap should be sufficient.