Air Cleaner

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11 Dec 2017 14:57 - 11 Dec 2017 19:58 #21 by Dean and Kaye Howells
Dean and Kaye Howells replied the topic: Air Cleaner
The Acco 1810 (which came with a 6cyl Perkins Phaser engine) is a very, very common truck and has a 10" Donaldson air cleaner body which is very similar (if not the same as) an early NT air filter housing. The housings internal length is approx. 25mm longer and externally about 40mm longer. My original LT Oka filter housing is 9" dia and was made by Fleetguard.
After upgrading to the Cummins 6BT it became quite obvious that the original Oka filter is inadequate for the larger capacity engine. The engine was not 'breathing' adequately or running as good as it should. Fuel consumption was significantly higher than it should have been.
Oka Paul provided me with the Acco filter to try and it has exceeded my expectations :)

The original Oka setup is a 90mm snorkel feeding air via a 'squashed' aluminium S bend (IMO an appalling piece of automotive design but beautifully engineered) necked down to 75mm into the air filter housing with restrictive baffles to generate a 'cyclone effect' to help remove dust and with a 75mm outlet to the turbo.

The 'improved' setup provides better air flow in every way, it is still a cyclone type filter but uses a plastic shroud and fins on the filter itself to 'generate' the cyclone. The only thing that stays the same is the external air inlet shroud itself which has an inlet area of approx. 95 sq cm but is now pointed forward (like the NT) to provide a 'ram air' effect, particularly at higher speeds.



The oval snorkel inlet is now 95mm X 120mm (previously 80mm X 95mm) or about 40% bigger. The replacement snorkel is 100mm vs. the old 90mm or about 25% (cross section area) larger. There is no horrible bent aluminium plenum/restriction down to 75mm but a 'full flow' 100mm pipe all the way through to the air cleaner housing for a whopping 80% improvement in size and improved air flow. The outlet to the turbo is now 90mm (was 75mm) but fed with 100mm fittings as this fits my Cummins Holset turbo which has a 100mm inlet flange, for a 45% improvement in cross section area.





I used rubber (and PVC) bends as I was not happy with using soft silicon bends on a 'suction' line. The rubber is firmer and about twice the thickness of the silicon and about half the cost. the PVC is about 1/10th the cost but a bit harder to work with.

The 10" mounting bands for the Donaldson filter have the same mounting centres as the original 9" Fleetguard bands and with 8mm inserts installed bolt straight in using the existing holes for a 'perfect' fit.



If you're not fussed about keeping a circular cutout in the coffin panel and are OK with an upside down U cutout then installation is a lot easier. ie. there's no need to trim the body mount wing (or trim the rear external flange of the air cleaner housing) or to cut and bend the mudguard flange as the filter assembly is just slid in from the front. The 'foofer' valve thingy is the same size connection on both housings. I chose to keep the original Oka circular cutout look.



It was a bit of a tight fit but very doable, the main tools needed are the odd spanner and 100mm angle grinder with a 1mm disc. When it came to cutting the the larger circle in the coffin panel I used a Dremmel with a 30mm cutting disc which I also used to enlarge the cutouts where the original snorkel saddles were re used.
I used 100mm exhaust pipe for the new snorkel and the connection between the 100mm PVC right angle fitting from the filter housing inlet to the 100mm rubber 90 degree bend that fits perfectly through the opening in the floor behind the driver to pick up the bottom of the snorkel. There is no need to cut the floor or the panel behind the drivers seat.

The 'new' air filter elements are Donaldson. P900 226 (main) and P900 228 (safety). I used the Fleetguard equivalent AF4627KM (main) which at around $50 is cheaper than the Baldwin filters I'd been buying for the original Oka air cleaner setup. A safety filter equivalent is Baldwin BAF0228.



The proof of the pudding as they say is in the eating.

Kaye and I did a 500 km test run to check out the Granny Flat camp site. From where we live in west Gippsland it is a winding and hilly run via Healesville, Kinglake, Mansfield and Jamieson to get there and our route home via Woods Point, Mt. Matlock and Warburton gave plenty of 3rd and 4th gear work plus a bit of 2nd gear. Power and drive-ability definitely improved and used 85 litres for 497 km which is 17l/100 km which I reckon is very good considering the terrain covered.

I did another run last week. Home to Moama via Calder Hwy through Melb am peak and via Heathcote etc and home via the Hume Hwy just missing pm peak but still heavy going through Melb. for a total of 614 km and 99 litres. Sitting on just over 2000 rpm or about 95 km/hr on basically main hwy and b class undulating hwy this gave approx.16.1 l/100 km which is around a 4l/100 km improvement and with better performance than with the old air cleaner setup.

IMO the original Oka air setup is at best 'barely adequate'. With the greater air requirements of a bigger capacity engine or larger turbo optimal performance will not be achieved without better air flow, this includes removing the restrictive original Oka baffled muffler and replacing it with an unbaffled type.



Deano :)
Last Edit: 11 Dec 2017 19:58 by Dean and Kaye Howells. Reason: correction
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12 Dec 2017 10:51 #22 by Harry
Harry replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Well done Dr . Deano
I have followed in your foot seps and am almost finished the 1810 acco air cleaner in the Oka just waiting for 2 x 100mm Donaldson black rubber elbows ....
The fit is rather easy with your instructions that you posted and I must say ..
the round hole in the coffin panel looks much better than the horse shoe ones that I have seen on other Okas and there is no cutting a hole in the floor behind the seat
If the elbows had of come in the mail I recon it would be a 1/2 to 3/4 day operation to fit the acco 1810 air cleaner looking forward in taking the old girl for a run ( the Oka that is ) thank you Dr Deano sorry my acco air cleaner is out of an 1830 acco for the truck wreckers in Cowra NSW I don’t think he has any left . He has 1710 acco s but they are a little smaller in length only 260 long and as long as the 1810 / 1830 ones
If you are able to find the air cleaner go for it it is an easy modification

Oka 045 the WIDE Motorhome 6bt cummins 500 watt solar diesel heating gas cooking up grade LSD front and rear diffs to 4:56 from 4:88 . 320 lt fuel 153 lt fresh water in 3 separate tanks 3 house batteries 1 start battery 176 lt upright fridge/freezer Black dog security
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12 Dec 2017 12:14 #23 by Harry
Harry replied the topic: Air Cleaner
I forgot to mention that there are some very clever people in the Oka group . Which makes it so much easier for a lot of people ... really thanks a lot guys you all make Oka ing a lot more fun

Oka 045 the WIDE Motorhome 6bt cummins 500 watt solar diesel heating gas cooking up grade LSD front and rear diffs to 4:56 from 4:88 . 320 lt fuel 153 lt fresh water in 3 separate tanks 3 house batteries 1 start battery 176 lt upright fridge/freezer Black dog security

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13 Dec 2017 06:15 #24 by dandjcr
dandjcr replied the topic: Air Cleaner

Harry wrote: I forgot to mention that there are some very clever people in the Oka group . Which makes it so much easier for a lot of people ... really thanks a lot guys you all make Oka ing a lot more fun


Thanks, Harry, and yes, fitting a new air cleaner system did fit in the 'fun' category.

Although I used an Optiair 1100 which I bought a year ago, I also used a fixing method similar to Deano's.

To avoid removing the rear wall, (due to a shower being there) I reused the original brackets, heavily modified, with 2 loops to support the air cleaner body and one strap over the top to hold it down.



I also cut a bit out of the spring support on the chassis to avoid a wear point, and fitted a rear support so the filter body stays put.

The Optiair fits in OK but I cut the latch handle off so I can undo the cover with a wedge (AKA a screwdriver). Works fine. Yes it has a keyhole opening but I had some rust patches there anyway which now I don't.



Since the Optiair has a 5inch inlet, I retained 5 inch pipework right up to the snorkel input with only 45º bends, no 90ºs, so airflow is nice and smooth and quiet.

I couldn't find any economic 5 inch pipe so I rolled my own in thin ali sheet and extended the internal cover to suit. It looks and works fine.





David

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
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14 Dec 2017 11:40 - 14 Dec 2017 11:44 #25 by mort
mort replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Hi All,
When deciding what to do or not to do about your air intake and what materials or products to use Deans example above is a good one to explain.
I have had a few phone conversations with Dean re air intake/delivery over the past year or so and I could not convince him to change his system as ( in my words ) others were using the same original filter etc and it seamed to be OK however it wasnt till he took off the cover on his return to home that he noticed a difference in performance and economy, on telling Paul his findings he was given a filter housing to try.
His installation is pretty much what I have been advocating since starting this subject of turbos, filters, air delivery from cowl to filter and filter to engine and cowl.
From the cowl to filter housing 100 mm is perfect any larger and you wont fit the plastic cover over and the hole in the floor is about 105 mm so you just about fill that gap.
From filter to turbo .. the filter out is 90 mm and turbo 100 mm the turbo is in 100 mm for a reason ... Ok.
The cowl std is down I did before turbo change face it forward hoping for the ram effect but found that when it rained water was sucked in and filter wet which noticeably restricted air flow also with the new turbo when I went through tight tracts with bush up to the side of the OKA I would suck the leaves right off the branches, I only realised when I was down on power that I opened the filter thinking it was dust that I realised it was half full of green mulch.
If you set your engine to 2000 rpm and put your hand over the cowl you will feel the suction and realise that you are not going to go fast enough to achieve a ram effect so the negatives out-way the benefits.
The filter housing and or element if you are going to use one that you have sourced yourself remember that if the std is barely enough then if say a 6BT is 1/3rd bigger than the Perkins then ask yourself should the filter and or element be just a little bigger or smaller. Using Deans install above the std is 225 mm diameter and the new is 250 mm and length is internal 25 mm longer all sounds good BUT the plastic shroud with fins takes up about 1/3 rd the filter element length and the metal band at the top takes away more and what you have left is a surface area maybe less than the original element so if there is a noticeable gain how much better will it be if the filter/ element was much bigger.
What I am saying here is that the whole has to be considered not just put something together and yes getting a better result is it the best result.
Martyn
Last Edit: 14 Dec 2017 11:44 by mort.
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14 Dec 2017 16:15 #26 by mort
mort replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Hi All,
A few more Questions to answer.
Are filter elements supplied.
Yes a main and a safety supplied.
Is the rubber fittings/bends better than silicone.
If you already have them yes but if you have to purchase in Aus then what is cheaper but if you want me to supply then at approx $5.00 for a 100 mm bend what do you think.
If you think a silicone fitting will collapse on the intake line I put it to you if you have the air coming in through a 100 mm pipe to the turbo but from the turbo say a 65 mm pipe at say 16 lb boost pressure plus some heat which fitting has the most pressure or if you have enough suction to collapse a suitably manufactured and reinforced silicone fitting then that is the least of your worry as you will suck all the dust right through the filter and maybe the filter itself.
Short answer NO.
What is the diameter of the housing.
Its 305 mm with 100 mm in and out.
Does it stick out.
That is up to you. The body has a 15 mm lip which allows you to mount right up to the panel and do away with the pinch weld and makes a much neater install or you can cut the hole bigger and mount inside.
The lid is 10 mm its a much better lid than the Donaldson so if you mount hard up then it will stick out 10 mm.
Martyn
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14 Dec 2017 17:19 #27 by Ralley
Ralley replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Depending on how the Cummins in setup I think the optiaire is border line. I was wondering Mort what the CFM rating for your filter?
If anyone is interested I’ve put a link in that you can fill in that gives a CFM requirement for a given setup. I don’t know how accurate it is but better than guessing.

www.dieselperformance.com/page/turbo-match-calculator
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15 Dec 2017 06:35 #28 by Tony Lee
Tony Lee replied the topic: Air Cleaner
So maybe I need to clarify what is included in the price.
Filter housing and two filters are supplied.

Are there any bends supplied with it for connection to the turbo inlet
Are there any bends supplied for connection to the snorkel

Tony

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15 Dec 2017 10:56 #29 by Harry
Harry replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Tony
This is what it cost me
1830A aircleaner $85
3x 100 x100 x 90 degree rubber elbow you could use silicone. $90
90 rubber sleeve $40
Clamps 5 x 100 mm
3 x 90 mm. $24
90 x 90 x 45 degree steel elbow $40
Air cleaner fleet guard AF 4627 km $ 54
Rubber trim for the air box on the coffin panel. $10
Total. $ 368
I did not need any nuts and bolts as the cradle holes were the same the only cutting that I did was as Dean stated
Honestly one would think that everything was made for the upgrade
Hope that will help you out .....
I beleave that your Oka will love this improvement with your turbo wastgate upgrade
Cheers

Oka 045 the WIDE Motorhome 6bt cummins 500 watt solar diesel heating gas cooking up grade LSD front and rear diffs to 4:56 from 4:88 . 320 lt fuel 153 lt fresh water in 3 separate tanks 3 house batteries 1 start battery 176 lt upright fridge/freezer Black dog security

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15 Dec 2017 11:53 - 15 Dec 2017 12:03 #30 by mort
mort replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Hi Ralley,
The CFM is pretty much the same as optiaire.
I have checked the space and there is no room to go larger dia and maybe 30 mm deeper so I cant get a bigger one for you.
Although you have a 6BT you are pushing around 30 boost which requires more air and a lot of driving is done off bitumen so you need the safety so yes I understand your issue.
Have you considered installing a 2nd filter on the passenger side and joining both together?
Martyn
Last Edit: 15 Dec 2017 12:03 by mort.

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15 Dec 2017 12:02 #31 by mort
mort replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Hi Tony,
Supplied is,
! x filter housing.
1 x main and 1 x safety filter
1 x silicone bend 100 mm for snorkel to filter housing inlet
2 x silicone bend 100 mm
1 x silicone bend 100 mm reduce to 74 mm
1 x silicone 74 to 65 mm straight reducer all for connection from filter out to turbo in.
Shipping to your door.
Martyn

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15 Dec 2017 13:53 - 15 Dec 2017 14:54 #32 by Dean and Kaye Howells
Dean and Kaye Howells replied the topic: Air Cleaner
A bit more info on #413's 'updated' air delivery system.

After our initial 'test run' of #413 to Darwin via Ceduna and return via Mt. Isa and Birdsville it was pretty obvious early on that we probably had problems with insufficient air flow to the engine. Unfortunately due to the mainly off road terrain/dirt road route we were taking I wasn't game to remove the air filter cover as a first step in isolating the issue. So after 9500 km of quite poor fuel consumption there was literally a "breath of fresh air" traveling the final leg home (on the bitumen with no dust and no rain) with the air filter cover removed.
Prior to this cruising fuel consumption averaged approx. 18.5 l/100 km @ 1850 rpm, 20 l/100 km @ 1950 rpm. The worst we experienced was cruising at 2150 rpm early in the trip where I actually ran out the fuel tank after only 450 km for an appalling 23 l/100 km. Needless to say I didn't venture into this territory again on the trip. Previously with the Perkins our highway touring economy at the same engine speed would be around 16 to 16.5 l/100 km.
Removing the air cleaner cover highlighted the difference that opening up the air cleaner intake path could make even with an 'old' dirty air cleaner and no change to the air cleaner outlet plumbing.
I discussed this with Oka Paul and he offered me an International Acco 1810 air filter housing originally from from a 6 cylinder Perkins Phaser powered vehicle. The 6 cylinder Perkins is very similar to the 6BT Cummins in that it it is a 6 cyl, 12 valve, 5.95 litre, mechanically injected turbo charged engine. Power output of the Phaser variants is pretty much the same as for the Cummins 6BT ie. around 160 to 220 hp in standard form so I figured it was reasonable to assume air supply requirements would be pretty much the same. For a more 'highly tuned' non standard engine a different solution would probably be required.
The filter assembly is a 10" Donaldson which came with factory std. 90mm inlet and outlet connections. The inlet connection was actually 100mm with a 90mm reducer spot welded in place.



100mm to 90mm reducer removed with 100mm 90 degree PVC bend and 100mm flared exhaust pipe connection

I removed the 100mm to 90mm reducer thereby increasing the inlet size by 25% over original and around 80% increase compared to the std. Oka. If International and Donaldson reckoned the 90mm inlet was OK for the Perkins 6 cyl then increasing it by 25% was IMO going to make it more than suitable for the Cummins. The 90mm outlet (65% bigger than Oka) was connected directly to a 100mm (100+% bigger than Oka) rubber adapter to connect to the Perkins turbo which I assume also has a 100mm inlet flange/coupling. I connected to our Cummins 100mm turbo inlet in a similar manner though I used 100mm pipe/hose all the way with the air cleaner end of its rubber connection bend internally 'sleeved' with a cut off 90mm piece of the 90/100mm adapter which has a wall thickness of 5mm to make it a 'perfect fit'.



Air cleaner to turbo connection, 100mm all the way with 90mm 'neck down' at air cleaner end

Whilst this practice of necking the air cleaner outlet 'up' from 90mm to 100mm may seem a bit unorthodox, I figured if it's good enough for one of the worlds biggest filtration companys and Australia's biggest truck manufacturer to do so it's good enough for me too.

The proof of the pudding as I said before is in the eating. #413's performance and economy have improved significantly with this simple upgrade. I looked at various other air delivery solutions before settling on this one. I tried various pipe and connector combinations.



Some of the materials I 'played' with along the way.

I'm not saying the Acco 1810 solution will suit every one but I am saying it is the easiest and quickest to do and gives a professional and original looking solution to the problem of poor air supply.

There is no cutting or masking down at the snorkel inlet, indeed the original Oka vinyl 'mask' is removed for a perfect fit of the cut down 90 degree rubber bend in the coffin panel. The biggest pain of a job previously in fitting an alternate air filter housing was in fabricating and fitting the bands/brackets to hold the new housing in place. Working in a restricted area it was often necessary to either cut out the floor or the vertical panel behind the drivers seat to gain access. With this upgrade it is not necessary to do either. The 10" bands that (hopefully) come with the Donaldson filter housing (or about $70 a pair new) bolt straight in using the existing holes and bolts. If you're not bothered with having an inverted U cutout in the coffin panel then there's no need to trim as shown in my earlier post. If you wish to retain the 'original' circular cutout look then it gets a bit fiddlier but not a major engineering issue. There is no welding required at all. The new 100mm snorkel uses the same mounting lugs/bolts,nuts and (modified) saddles as the original with the two mounting cutouts dia. increased from 90 to 100mm.
With simple hand tools the average handy man (or woman) could IMO fit a newly prepared filter and snorkel assembly in an afternoon.

Davids suggestion of using 45 degree bends is a good one and should fit well, I didn't think of till I'd obtained my 90 degree rubber bends. Interestingly the 45 degree rubber bends I bought were approx. 40% dearer than the 90's. Perhaps if I build the Mk. 2 version :)

I'm not concerned that a forward facing air inlet will suck in excessive amounts of water though I do take Martyns point that when driving with a leafy overhang extra attention should be taken with sucking leaves, pollen etc in. The plastic shroud on the rear of the Donaldson air filter is there to stop any foreign material coming down the inlet from contaminating the filter and the plastic vanes are there to create the outward throwing cyclone effect to push foreign material including water outward to be ejected via the 'foofer' valve. Lang (I think) did give me the correct term for this valve but I've forgotten it. :)
The Oka Fleetguard filter achieves this (cyclone) differently and IMO not as well as the Donaldson. When gutted to improve air flow the Oka filter housing has little if no cyclone effect which leads to premature filter failure from dirt, water and other contaminants. That's the trade off when modifying the original Oka filter housing by removing the internal baffles.

Whilst Martyn and I (and others) have approached the issue of poor air supply to the Oka and come up with different solutions, no one solution suits all but all are improvements in one way or another. I looked for a solution that was cheap, simple and could be done with minimum mechanical skill and tools using common locally sourced parts and that kept fabrication and engineering to a minimum. KISS was my goal. I reckon I've achieved that goal with the help of Oka Paul and half a dozen other Oka owners who have contributed to the end result. :)

Deano :)
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Last Edit: 15 Dec 2017 14:54 by Dean and Kaye Howells. Reason: correction
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16 Dec 2017 04:39 - 16 Dec 2017 05:03 #33 by dandjcr
dandjcr replied the topic: Air Cleaner

Dean and Kaye Howells wrote: Davids suggestion of using 45 degree bends is a good one and should fit well, I didn't think of till I'd obtained my 90 degree rubber bends. Interestingly the 45 degree rubber bends I bought were approx. 40% dearer than the 90's. Perhaps if I build the Mk. 2 version :)
Deano :)


Deano, for the 5 inch rubber bends, the 45º's cost less than the 90º's, although not cheap. I bought them from Truckbits Aust here. I've check other sites and the same thing seems to apply.

I'm sure cheaper hose clamps could be used as well (ie thin jubilee hose clips, joined as necessary) as there is very little air pressure/depression in the inlet pipes with a large open end, and the rubber seals well to the pipe anyway. So well in fact that I had to use a smear of Vaseline to ease them on and off.

I had to do a little bit of surgery to the original snorkel channel and extend it outwards (inwards?) by 40mm (using ali channel from an old shower screen) to allow for the larger pipe diameter and sound insulation but it fits OK with the original cover modified to suit, and the seat still reclines.





I also extended the external snorkel cover in a similar way (based on Peter's previous idea) so the air intake area remained greater than the pipe CS area. I could try different orientations of the cover but I suspect the airflow close to the body will be slowed down anyway to provide much ram effect.

I like the idea of a direct air filter to turbo inlet pipe but the location of the original turbo inlet makes it geometrically impractical, so a gooseneck is required.

No puddings have yet been tasted to confirm the results of all this labour, still working intermittently on the intercooler pipework and related annoyances, but in the new year...

David

David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
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Last Edit: 16 Dec 2017 05:03 by dandjcr. Reason: Compositional cockups
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17 Dec 2017 14:35 #34 by mort
mort replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Hi All,
I have a number of names on the list for the air filter so over the next few days I will send out the bank details to those that have told me that they want the air filter and silicone bends.
Unlike the turbo the company want the full amount up front including freight which I have no issue with.
If you dont hear from me or you want a filter just let me know.
I will place the order before christmas
Martyn

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18 Dec 2017 18:20 #35 by mort
mort replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Hi All,
I have sent out details via email to all that I have on my list if you didn't get let me know or if you want one again let me know.
I forgot to mention that if you want extra silicone bends/fittings of different sizes it can be done.
Martyn

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19 Dec 2017 09:58 - 19 Dec 2017 10:04 #36 by Dean and Kaye Howells
Dean and Kaye Howells replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Looks good David, upgrading to 125mm should certainly give a reasonable increase in air flow for the little Perky. What's the original turbo inlet size 64mm ? Are you 'over engineering' so that you can fit a 6 cyl somewhere down the track :), sort of a first stage in a weakening of resolve as you inevitably head for the dark side ?

How'd you go rolling the ali sheet, did you fold join the seam like you would a down pipe? Along the way I had a bit of a play with thin ali. duct pipe (too thin) and PVC (too thick) and settled on exhaust pipe though I reckon 100mm thin walled ali. irrigation pipe (used by at least one other Oka owner) could be the 'Goldilocks' solution. The flexible duct pipe was very cheap (and thin) and dead easy to form and fit with my only worry being that it could collapse with suction if a piece of plastic or something similar momentarily blocked the inlet. For the same the reason I didn't consider the use of soft silicon bends here or between the outlet and the turbo as I thought a blocked filter could also cause collapse here as well. The PVC was the opposite, too thick. At 105mm OD it is a very tight fit in the rubber bends and would have meant fabricating new mounting saddles and fitting new mounting points in the upper coffin panel, doable but not worth the effort IMO when thin walled 100mm exhaust pipe is cheaply and readily available and simple to fit.

I used silicon spray where you used Vaseline as I'm in to 'high tech solutions' :)

I've seen one air cleaner 'solution' where an Oka filter housing has its inlet and outlet increased to 100mm and plumbed with 100mm PVC and using 45 degree PVC bends all the way to the inlet. A very cheap and effective solution but a fair bit of fabrication involved.

I take your point with increasing the inlet cross section, not optimal having a 95 sq cm opening feeding a 120 sq cm snorkel pipe. With a 100 mm pipe its cross section is 78 sq cm so should hopefully be fine.

I don't know if I agree that the 'ram air' effect is negligible though, possibly at low speeds but I reckon inlet air at 95 km/hr is going to pressurise the inlet to some extent especially when compared to the original XT/LT air inlet where air rushing past the inlet is more likely (from a theoretical view point) to create a venturi effect and a depression.

I don't reckon the 'goose neck' is going to give you much of an efficiency hit as your 125mm to 64mm reduction should give a fair bit of wriggle room but certainly would be better without it from a design viewpoint but a bit hard to avoid with 125mm plumbing..

The ex Dodge Ram 12v Cummins has a Holset HC51 turbo which has either a 100mm inlet (for the intercooled variants) or a 75mm inlet for the non intercooled models. Both have 75mm outlets. Our turbo has the 100mm inlet but we are non intercooled, perhaps sometime down the track. Being able to neck the 90mm outlet up internally to use 100mm pipe/hose meant that it was not necessary to use an in line 100mm to 90mm reducer down the track which allowed connection to the turbo without a goose neck. Cheaper and simpler.

Perhaps you'll be able to taste your Christmas pudding and share it with us in the near future.

Merry Christmas to you and Janet

Dean & Kaye Howells :)
Last Edit: 19 Dec 2017 10:04 by Dean and Kaye Howells. Reason: correction

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19 Dec 2017 12:54 #37 by Peter and Sandra OKA 374
Peter and Sandra OKA 374 replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Having spent a couple of decades driving diesel troopies we found years ago that the snorkle did bugger all as far as pushing air in until around 85kph, then if you entered a gully full of cool air you could notice the difference but otherwise it's best effect was to hopefully pick up cleaner air than lower down in dusty conditions. Deep water crossings were the only other use and then only if you pulled the whole intake apart and sealed all the bodgy joins where it went through the mudguard as in standard fit off the factory floor the vast majority leaked profusely.
I can't detect any difference between the existing facing down position and facing the intake forwards with the 6BT in the Oka with a 100mm intake and the Optiair, only an increase in intake noise when facing forwards.
I would also imagine that facing forward would suck water in pretty well in heavy rain as the standard snorkle intake has nothing like the water separating abilities of a genuine Donaldson Ram head.
We used to fit the Donaldson Ram head to the Toyota troopy snorkle and you could point the hose at it while it was running and no water ever made it to the aircleaner.

OKA 374 LT Van, converted to camper/motorhome,
400ah Lithiums, 1100w solar, diesel cooking heating and HWS,
Cummins 6BT, Allison 6 speed auto, Nissan transfer.

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20 Dec 2017 09:51 #38 by Dean and Kaye Howells
Dean and Kaye Howells replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Hi Peter and thanks for the input. I've wondered about this (direction of air inlet) for years so thought I'd amuse myself with a bit of 'research'. Donaldson agree with you that it doesn't matter whether their head points down or forward




but I'm not quite so sure if the same holds true for the Oka setup so I'll do a couple of thousand touring K's on our next trip, turn the head 90 degrees and do a couple of thousand more K's to see if there's a discernible difference.

I'm not concerned about sucking in copious amounts of water etc as it shouldn't be too difficult to provide a water drain hole(s) to gain a similar effect to Donaldsons head.



note. both these pics come from www.donaldson4wd.com.au/files/5413/4852/.../10PP002_Air_Ram.pdf

Deano.

ps. merry Christmas to you and Sandra :)
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20 Dec 2017 11:50 #39 by Peter and Sandra OKA 374
Peter and Sandra OKA 374 replied the topic: Air Cleaner
Deano in practice the Donaldson Ram head works very well, not so the copies that are around. The actual grille on the genuine one is actually about 12mm deep/thick and angled to force the incoming air out to the sides as per the diagram where it slows down and dumps most of the dirt and water out which in turn run down the inside and out the drain slots which is why the tube has to go right up to the bottom of the lugs on the ram to give the necessary low pressure area for the dirt and water to escape. As I said we pointed a garden hose at the ram while the engine was running and no water entered the air cleaner at all.

OKA 374 LT Van, converted to camper/motorhome,
400ah Lithiums, 1100w solar, diesel cooking heating and HWS,
Cummins 6BT, Allison 6 speed auto, Nissan transfer.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Dean and Kaye Howells

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20 Dec 2017 12:57 - 20 Dec 2017 13:05 #40 by outyonda
outyonda replied the topic: Air Cleaner
another good pre cleaner is the turbo head, Donaldson Topspin.
they work sideways or whayever angle,

the spinning fan throughs water & dust out & starts the air circulation.

OKAs 091, 093, 094, 113, 346x6 & 405
Last Edit: 20 Dec 2017 13:05 by outyonda.

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