Tare weight of XT cab/chassis?
- Harry
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Oka 045 the WIDE Motorhome 6bt cummins 500 watt solar diesel heating gas cooking up grade LSD front and rear diffs to 4:56 from 4:88 . 320 lt fuel 153 lt fresh water in 3 separate tanks 3 house batteries 1 start battery 176 lt upright fridge/freezer Black dog security
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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What is the weight of the whole vehicle on the road, full of water and fuel, tools and toys Harry?
I used a light weight steel frame and sandwich panel for #196 16 years ago and it has been very satisfactory, but the steel frame is not required and honeycomb sandwich is heavier than urethane foam and the insulation properties of the honeycomb are very poor by comparison.
I had my engineer around the other day to chat about some of my plans. Discussing the mounting of the 200L tanks took an hour. Discussing gluing the camper box floor to the chassis took 10 minutes.
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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- Harry
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There are always better things around and seem to get stronger and easier to use as new product come about oh I forgot I took out 3 x 100 amp house lead batteries and replaced them with 2x 120 amp solar king lithium batteries lost a bit of weight there as well also took out very heavy PTO winch replacing it with an electric one
Oka 045 the WIDE Motorhome 6bt cummins 500 watt solar diesel heating gas cooking up grade LSD front and rear diffs to 4:56 from 4:88 . 320 lt fuel 153 lt fresh water in 3 separate tanks 3 house batteries 1 start battery 176 lt upright fridge/freezer Black dog security
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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- Holmz
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(I'll need to crawl around with a tape measure.)
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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I could make extras of both new tanks.
I can post a pic and dimensions of the 200L one soon, the 140L inboard one will be a couple of weeks.
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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- Alister McBride
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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It essentially replaces a standard tank but is longer and also goes under the chassis rail.
If you have a standard wheel base it takes up the battery space. If you have a chassis that is extended 200mm, the battery can remain in place.
The wedge shaped cut out is to avoid the body mount and the tank will fit on either side and with or without the chassis extension. That is why it is so long.
The little gold spots around the top edge are moulded-in brass M8 threaded inserts that were a bit of an experiment. I would not anticipate doing more like that.
The hole in the top centre is a manufacturing requirement. I will blank that off with a spin welded plug.
There is some moulding distortion in the long flat side under the chassis rail, but I don't expect it to affect its fitment or performance.
I have moulded them at 20kg and at 30kg. 20kg is about 7.5mm wall thickness. 30kg is about 11.5mm wall thickness. The material is Medium Density Polyethylene. I am led to believe that it is approved for diesel. I have 2 rear wedge shaped tanks made from the same material and moulding technique in #196 that have been in use for 16 years now.
I expect to use one each side, both 20kg, one for water and one for fuel.
Dimensions are 1345mm long, 400mm deep and 500mm overall wide (which means it hangs out 425mm from the outside of the chassis rail). It has no baffles.
I have developed a mounting system (but have not built a complete one yet). I expect that a 20kg tank plus mounts will weigh a tad less than a standard 105L tank and mounts.
I could mould tanks for other people (if there is interest) but would need to make a minimum of 5 at a time. The 5 could be different weights though. I reckon 20kg tanks will be $650 each (plus freight if applicable).
In theory, they could be any colour, or at least the colours that the moulder has available, so if you want a blue one, it might be possible
I will NOT be supplying mountings for them. Anyone who takes a tank will have to take responsibility for their own.
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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Stiff and light. This is 10mm thick and weighs 1.7kg/m2. That compares with 3mm plywood at 2.8kg/m2 or 1.2mm aluminium at 3.1kg/m2.
Glove box lids. Added a plastic angle around the edge so stuff does not fall off. Originals 1.52kg each, new ones 0.65kg each.
LH motor side access panel. Original 4.0kg, new one 1.87kg. The sound insulation weighs 6kg/m2, so is a significant part.
Engine hatch. Added 65mm PVC angle compartments to retain stuff. Adds even more stiffness. Original 9kg, new is under 5kg and the acoustic stuff is 2.7kg of that. The main panel is the 10mm polycarbonate roofing. I thought about using 2 thicknesses, but decided to try one and it is fine. The PVC angle is 340g/m. A small over centre latch each side and piano hinge at the rear. Held open with a piece of cord and a hook. Works extremely well.
Anti slip Hub step. 3mm aluminium and a S/S T bolt clamp. Original 1.115kg, new 0.283kg x2.
I am putting all these experimental bits on #196 to try them out.
Now looking at multi wall polycarbonate sheeting that is 18mm thick, weighs 3.1kg/m2 and might be suitable for most of the interior furniture etc.
Weighed the vehicle today with a portable scale. FL 1041kg, FR 970kg, RL 338kg, RR 508kg = Total 2,857kg.
No spare, 50L fuel, bull bar, rear window in cab.
Not sure if I can believe it?
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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- Peter and Sandra OKA 374
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For similar reasons all fluids associated with the engine are to be physically isolated from the passenger compartment, things like heater hoses, hydraulic lines etc. I remember back in the early 80's it was one of the reasons that Toyota stopped the 40 series Cruisers as the heater hoses were exposed in the passenger compartment..
OKA 374 LT Van, converted to camper/motorhome,
400ah Lithiums, 1100w solar, diesel cooking heating and HWS,
Cummins 6BT, Allison 6 speed auto, Nissan transfer.
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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If necessary a vey thin sheet of steel or aluminium could be included.
Hydraulic lines in OKAs all go past the driver's legs.
We will see I guess?
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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- Alister McBride
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Nice idea for hub steps by the way... i'm interested to see how those little tabs go bending down over time but i think it's definitely got merits!
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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Seems too light.
I reckon the tabs will be fine. I just beat that thing out with a hammer and an angle grinder. Not very fancy, but works fine.
When I tried the original, the foot only touches the outer row of tabs..
One kilogram at a time
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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- Holmz
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- Paul Scherek
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Similarly, for accuracy all wheels should be a similar height above the deck, although it is not as critical as the left/right balance.
Apologies if I am stating the obvious!
Cheers, Paul
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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I visited their warehouse in Adelaide today hoping to get some information of other products and maybe a sample or 2, particularly of the 18mm stuff.
They won't sell direct, but were interested in what I wanted to do with it, so we finished up out in the warehouse looking for offcuts. Long story short, I departed with 21 pieces of 18mm thick stuff 1m wide and about 1m long plus 3 pieces 16mm x 1,5m.. Price was 3 slabs of some boutique beer that I will need to take back some time.
This stuff retails for about $100/m. It weighs 3.1kg/m2 and what I have is enough to build 75% of the whole of the interior. Just need a couple of longer bits for floor to ceiling walls and bench tops.
Good day.
Paul, the scale is 30mm thick, the vehicle was on flat concrete and I had a 30mm thick pad under each wheel, so it was as good as I could get it. ....
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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- Alister McBride
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While you've been looking into all of this 'coreflute' for the internal fitout i've been wondering what you think of using it for the overall camper structure? What is the weight per sq m of the sandwich panel people use for the main body of their campers? It's a bit of a left of field idea but surely a camper could be made of two panels of 10mm coreflute stuck together, 90deg from one another for 2D strength. It would be insulated, light weight and cheap. It would surely be adequately strong (structurally) and on the flip side, if a stick went through it (or whatever), you could gaffer tape it back together until you got to a supply joint to buy a couple of sheets and replace it easily? Since you've been all over this topic of late, what are your thoughts on that?
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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That 18mm stuff would have improved insulation by comparison, by virtue of the multiple walls, but still not up to the standard of the sandwich. They had made an 18mm version with a thicker top skin, but then it was still only 1m wide and would need to be joined on edge. The cost advantage would be fast disappearing too.
I did see a big 5er made from Mopan which is a polypropylene honeycomb sandwich. That had similar downsides but was also translucent, so was never dark inside if the sun was up.
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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- Tony Lee
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The sandwich panel is remarkably tough when it comes to scraping past trees and I doubt whether any of the alternatives would stand up as well.
On the canning stock route there are sections where the brush leans in a lot further than the width of the vehicle and the front face of the box which sticks out a few inches wider than the cab took a real pounding to the extent that the aluminium angle finishing off the corners was being peeled back (and the radio aerial ripped off and the mirrors hammered), but the actual fibreglass skin cleaned up good as new
Tony
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- Peter_n_Margaret
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I have a bruise on the side of #196, that only I would be able to see after 16 years including lots of scrub, but like you the 3mm thick aluminium trims (and even a 3mm thick steel trim at the front) have all been damaged at some time.
I guess it may be possible to laminate a fibreglass skin to some lighter panel, but there would be diminishing returns.
Cheers,
Peter
Cheers, Peter.
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