Alternator?
- dandjcr
-
Topic Author
- Offline
30 Oct 2012 13:27 - 30 Oct 2012 13:27 #1
by dandjcr
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
dandjcr created the topic: Alternator?
Forum Home > OKA Maintenance > Alternator?
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
Well i need some info on the alternator now, slowly getting through it all.
My tacho doesn't work and i have read the standard alternator is a 65A, mine has a 55A fitted and the housing is cracked, still charges though.
The model is a Bosch K1 14V 22/55A and also has 0 120 488 314 on it. There is a single blade coection on the rear, just near the stud, it has a twin core sheathed wire going to it with the red connected to it, power is coming from this connector, i tested with a multi meter. The black is just hanging there.
There is also the large battery cable coming from the stud and a single black wire also, that goes into the loom. Now the tacho hasn't worked for years apparently so i'm wondering whether it's the correct alternator with the tacho sensor, any ideas. If it is the wrong alternator,i'll just leave it as i will be putting the new engine in shortly.
I've looked the numbers up but had no luck, the Bosch website is pretty ordinary.
I do know the pink/brown wire on the rear of the tacho is the sensor wire, which terminal is supposed to be on, as there is a spare one, mine is connected to one of the outside ones, with S1 on it i think.
At least my wheel bearing socket turned up, after i ordered another one though,oh well, got one for sale when it gets here, all rotors changed now. Found a cheaper supplier too
January 8, 2012 at 10:22 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Chris J
Member
Posts: 56
Moose,
A quick way to check if the altenator tacho terminal has output is to use a multi meter set it to AC Volts should read 10 VAC per 1,000 RPM.
Regards. Chris.
--
Chris and Janice Jones - OKA 166
January 8, 2012 at 11:00 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
Thanks Chris. I just made up a wire to connect from the terminal to the tacho, tried both S1 and S2 connections and got nothing, so either the alternator is the wrong type or the tacho is stuffed.
January 8, 2012 at 11:54 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
Think it's the wrong alternator, cross reerence gives me BXH1236A, which has only 2 terminals on the back, i found the other one with a mirror, doh.
The terminals are for the battery and the alternator charge light. I could pull it out and connect a wire to one of the wires on the armature to make a W terminal but it's probably more hassle.
January 8, 2012 at 12:24 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Hal Harvey
Site Owner
Posts: 509
Just a reminder that there is also a Parts & Suppliers List shortcut over there in the sidebar. That tells me that the original alternator for an LT (and I expect an XT) was the Bosch BXU1285A; which I have a recollection is as common as muck.
--
Hal
January 8, 2012 at 2:03 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Moose, your alternator OEM number appears to be one from a Holden (see here).
I suggest you call PJL Diesel in Perth who I have had good advice from on alternators and starters. Normally Oka's would be fitted an 85A alternator as Hal says, (ours is a 120A model).
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
January 8, 2012 at 10:17 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
I was aware of the parts and suppliers list but was also trying to figure out whether the alternator on it was suitable, as i don't want to spend money on it when a new engine is going in, with a totally different alternator again.
The BXU1285A is off a variety of vehicles too, Fords, Holdens of various models.
Just trying to get more info on what parts are interchangeable as i have found of you ask for a part to suit an OKA it can be more expensive that the exact same part for a commodore.
For instance, I have read on here that someone paid over $90 for the caliper wedge kit, i just got one from the usa for $20 delivered, same as rotors, pads, wheel studs, bearings, i have prices here in Aust and can get them way cheaper from the usa, the wedge kit is only one example.
Rotors here $180 plus freight, from the USA $31 plus around $60 freight, same brand.
Wheel Stud $27.50ea, $10 from another Aust supplier and free freight.
January 10, 2012 at 12:14 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Peter & Sandra James Oka 374
Member
Posts: 412
Yes if you can find out where the parts come from or find them online then they can be way cheaper from OS.
I recently bought a replacement fan motor for the Oka, here in Oz was a big dent in $400 from the US was $34 plus postage.
It fitted straight in, all I had to do was change the connectors to suit
--
Oka 374 LT Van
January 10, 2012 at 8:19 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Moose, you've obviously done some useful parts research. Why not add your findings to the Parts and Suppliers listing?
If you can't do that, email the info to Hal, James or me and we'll add it for you.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
January 10, 2012 at 9:16 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
I agree with Moose, and maybe he can share some web sites???
--
August 13, 2012 at 10:09 PM Flag Quote & Reply
T & D Morris
Member
Posts: 29
Moose2367 at January 8, 2012 at 10:22 AM
Well i need some info on the alternator now, slowly getting through it all.
My tacho doesn't work and i have read the standard alternator is a 65A, mine has a 55A fitted and the housing is cracked, still charges though.
The model is a Bosch K1 14V 22/55A and also has 0 120 488 314 on it. There is a single blade coection on the rear, just near the stud, it has a twin core sheathed wire going to it with the red connected to it, power is coming from this connector, i tested with a multi meter. The black is just hanging there.
There is also the large battery cable coming from the stud and a single black wire also, that goes into the loom. Now the tacho hasn't worked for years apparently so i'm wondering whether it's the correct alternator with the tacho sensor, any ideas. If it is the wrong alternator,i'll just leave it as i will be putting the new engine in shortly.
I've looked the numbers up but had no luck, the Bosch website is pretty ordinary.
I do know the pink/brown wire on the rear of the tacho is the sensor wire, which terminal is supposed to be on, as there is a spare one, mine is connected to one of the outside ones, with S1 on it i think.
At least my wheel bearing socket turned up, after i ordered another one though,oh well, got one for sale when it gets here, all rotors changed now. Found a cheaper supplier too
Moose
Robin Wade fitted a Bosch 120 amp High Impulse Alternator to our XT OKA.
He took it to an Auto electrician in Kalgoorlie, don't know who.
If you need a part number I can try and find it?
Terry
August 13, 2012 at 10:33 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
All good Terry, the perkins is coming out anyway, replaced with the cummins.
August 13, 2012 at 10:52 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
I wouldnt mind the number Terry.
--
August 13, 2012 at 11:01 PM Flag Quote & Reply
T & D Morris
Member
Posts: 29
Outback Jack at August 13, 2012 at 11:01 PM
I wouldnt mind the number Terry.
Hi
The only numbers I can see are
5225-14 :48.
Searching the web for this number came up with a John Deere tractor Alternator?
Robin took my OKA to an auto electrical business in Kalgoorlie to have the winch wired up and this larger alternator fitted.
He may remember the business if the numbers are no good.
Terry
August 14, 2012 at 9:30 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Hi Terry,
OK thanks, did a quick search and couldnt find it. I will look a little more....
thks OBJ
August 14, 2012 at 9:38 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
Outback Jack at August 13, 2012 at 10:09 PM
I agree with Moose, and maybe he can share some web sites???
I had plans on doing a documnet with a heap of part numbers etc, but had a laptop die and lost a lot of it electronically. I have a paper trail of it, somewhere!!!
I'm in the process of leaving the OKA here in Vic right now, i bought a Falcon RTV and am heading to the high country this week deer hunting, then to Bundaberg to earn some $.
The only things i have off the top of my head are the rotors and wheels studs.
Rotors are Aimco part number 5564 or NAPA 4885843.
Dimensions are
8 x 6.5stud pattern
Diam -12.874in (327mm)
Hat height - 3.07087in (78mm)
Disc thick - 1.53453in (39mm)
Center Bore - 4.94in (125.5mm)
They are available on Ebay USA for around $30US plus freight, compared to the $180 plus freight i was charged, exact same part number stamped in the rotor edge.
The wheel studs i got from Snake Racing, part number S796, $10 each compared to $27 i was charged somewhere else, plus free post from Snake Racing. They are a bit longer though, perfect for alloys and the thicker centre bore section.
When i find the rest i'll put them up too.
August 14, 2012 at 10:35 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Cheers for that Moose, perhaps start a new thread for websites/suppliers.
I was wondering if this alternator would fit
mascostartersandalternators.com/Sunshop/...product_detail&p=771
August 14, 2012 at 10:56 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Or a 200 amp Sucker
www.ase-supply.com/BOSCH_AL9962SB_12V_20...or_p/rb-al9962sb.htm
BTW they have Pollack valves for 50 odd dollars
--
August 14, 2012 at 11:25 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Jack, re the power requirements.
A 200 amp alternator will suck only the power from the engine that you demand from it. It may have a 200 amp capacity but with no or light load it will only take the power needed to rotate it.
200 amp equates to 2.8kw and would need dual belts if you really needed it's full output (ie serious welding or driving a microwave via a large inverter), but these would only be for a short period anyway.
So it's probably not worth worrying about the engine power requirements and focus on matching the alternator capacity to your electrical needs. We have a 120 amp alternator and it never provides more than 20-30 amp for normal battery charging/fridge.
The real advantage of a high capacity alternator is that it will be more reliable at lower outputs than a smaller one since it will be built tougher.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
August 15, 2012 at 8:56 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Alister McBride
Member
Posts: 97
I've setup a 110A ford EA (or EB can't remember now) alternator (from the wreckers) above the engine running off the auxillary pulley behind the fan therefore giving around 195A total possible. I'm still in the build phase of the vehicle so can't try it yet but found it good to have two alternators on a previous vehicle, one for the vehicle batteries and one for the camper batteries... Also, one can serve as a backup for the other when one breaks down! Oh, i did feel the need to upgrade the fan pulley to a double setup to drive the extra load as one belt couldn't drive 195 Amps of charge and the fan in total. Instead of buying a pulley i just machined off the single pulley and shrunk a standard (but machined) double pulley over the top. Probably worth buying one if you can, bit of a PITA!
Oh, and while i was there i machined up a replacement for the rediculously priced fan/idler pulley bearing setup on the front of the engine! I think it was around $700 new and non standard bearings, couldn't replace them!! So i machined up a housing and shaft and ran two $6.50 standard bearings. A day of machining and about $30 in total for materials and bearings, i thought well worth the experiment. Will let all know how it goes...
August 15, 2012 at 9:49 AM
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Jeez a lot of you guys have a lot of talent. I am no good with welders etc etc. I think the Duramax may come with two alternators as an option.
I guess its not a bad idea as you mentioned. One starting circuit and one other.
August 15, 2012 at 11:19 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Alister McBride
Member
Posts: 97
Most of the brackets were on mine for a previous air compressor so i've just modified for an alternator. Interesting point though... (sorry a little off topic!) Have you thought about the cummins? Seems like it might be a better option in my opinion from looking at Paul Knott's just completed recently. A bit more space in the engine bay so WHEN something goes wrong it can be fixed easily... Anyway, maybe a brand new engine won't go wrong
August 15, 2012 at 7:39 PM
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
Well i need some info on the alternator now, slowly getting through it all.
My tacho doesn't work and i have read the standard alternator is a 65A, mine has a 55A fitted and the housing is cracked, still charges though.
The model is a Bosch K1 14V 22/55A and also has 0 120 488 314 on it. There is a single blade coection on the rear, just near the stud, it has a twin core sheathed wire going to it with the red connected to it, power is coming from this connector, i tested with a multi meter. The black is just hanging there.
There is also the large battery cable coming from the stud and a single black wire also, that goes into the loom. Now the tacho hasn't worked for years apparently so i'm wondering whether it's the correct alternator with the tacho sensor, any ideas. If it is the wrong alternator,i'll just leave it as i will be putting the new engine in shortly.
I've looked the numbers up but had no luck, the Bosch website is pretty ordinary.
I do know the pink/brown wire on the rear of the tacho is the sensor wire, which terminal is supposed to be on, as there is a spare one, mine is connected to one of the outside ones, with S1 on it i think.
At least my wheel bearing socket turned up, after i ordered another one though,oh well, got one for sale when it gets here, all rotors changed now. Found a cheaper supplier too
January 8, 2012 at 10:22 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Chris J
Member
Posts: 56
Moose,
A quick way to check if the altenator tacho terminal has output is to use a multi meter set it to AC Volts should read 10 VAC per 1,000 RPM.
Regards. Chris.
--
Chris and Janice Jones - OKA 166
January 8, 2012 at 11:00 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
Thanks Chris. I just made up a wire to connect from the terminal to the tacho, tried both S1 and S2 connections and got nothing, so either the alternator is the wrong type or the tacho is stuffed.
January 8, 2012 at 11:54 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
Think it's the wrong alternator, cross reerence gives me BXH1236A, which has only 2 terminals on the back, i found the other one with a mirror, doh.
The terminals are for the battery and the alternator charge light. I could pull it out and connect a wire to one of the wires on the armature to make a W terminal but it's probably more hassle.
January 8, 2012 at 12:24 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Hal Harvey
Site Owner
Posts: 509
Just a reminder that there is also a Parts & Suppliers List shortcut over there in the sidebar. That tells me that the original alternator for an LT (and I expect an XT) was the Bosch BXU1285A; which I have a recollection is as common as muck.
--
Hal
January 8, 2012 at 2:03 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Moose, your alternator OEM number appears to be one from a Holden (see here).
I suggest you call PJL Diesel in Perth who I have had good advice from on alternators and starters. Normally Oka's would be fitted an 85A alternator as Hal says, (ours is a 120A model).
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
January 8, 2012 at 10:17 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
I was aware of the parts and suppliers list but was also trying to figure out whether the alternator on it was suitable, as i don't want to spend money on it when a new engine is going in, with a totally different alternator again.
The BXU1285A is off a variety of vehicles too, Fords, Holdens of various models.
Just trying to get more info on what parts are interchangeable as i have found of you ask for a part to suit an OKA it can be more expensive that the exact same part for a commodore.
For instance, I have read on here that someone paid over $90 for the caliper wedge kit, i just got one from the usa for $20 delivered, same as rotors, pads, wheel studs, bearings, i have prices here in Aust and can get them way cheaper from the usa, the wedge kit is only one example.
Rotors here $180 plus freight, from the USA $31 plus around $60 freight, same brand.
Wheel Stud $27.50ea, $10 from another Aust supplier and free freight.
January 10, 2012 at 12:14 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Peter & Sandra James Oka 374
Member
Posts: 412
Yes if you can find out where the parts come from or find them online then they can be way cheaper from OS.
I recently bought a replacement fan motor for the Oka, here in Oz was a big dent in $400 from the US was $34 plus postage.
It fitted straight in, all I had to do was change the connectors to suit
--
Oka 374 LT Van
January 10, 2012 at 8:19 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Moose, you've obviously done some useful parts research. Why not add your findings to the Parts and Suppliers listing?
If you can't do that, email the info to Hal, James or me and we'll add it for you.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
January 10, 2012 at 9:16 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
I agree with Moose, and maybe he can share some web sites???
--
August 13, 2012 at 10:09 PM Flag Quote & Reply
T & D Morris
Member
Posts: 29
Moose2367 at January 8, 2012 at 10:22 AM
Well i need some info on the alternator now, slowly getting through it all.
My tacho doesn't work and i have read the standard alternator is a 65A, mine has a 55A fitted and the housing is cracked, still charges though.
The model is a Bosch K1 14V 22/55A and also has 0 120 488 314 on it. There is a single blade coection on the rear, just near the stud, it has a twin core sheathed wire going to it with the red connected to it, power is coming from this connector, i tested with a multi meter. The black is just hanging there.
There is also the large battery cable coming from the stud and a single black wire also, that goes into the loom. Now the tacho hasn't worked for years apparently so i'm wondering whether it's the correct alternator with the tacho sensor, any ideas. If it is the wrong alternator,i'll just leave it as i will be putting the new engine in shortly.
I've looked the numbers up but had no luck, the Bosch website is pretty ordinary.
I do know the pink/brown wire on the rear of the tacho is the sensor wire, which terminal is supposed to be on, as there is a spare one, mine is connected to one of the outside ones, with S1 on it i think.
At least my wheel bearing socket turned up, after i ordered another one though,oh well, got one for sale when it gets here, all rotors changed now. Found a cheaper supplier too
Moose
Robin Wade fitted a Bosch 120 amp High Impulse Alternator to our XT OKA.
He took it to an Auto electrician in Kalgoorlie, don't know who.
If you need a part number I can try and find it?
Terry
August 13, 2012 at 10:33 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
All good Terry, the perkins is coming out anyway, replaced with the cummins.
August 13, 2012 at 10:52 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
I wouldnt mind the number Terry.
--
August 13, 2012 at 11:01 PM Flag Quote & Reply
T & D Morris
Member
Posts: 29
Outback Jack at August 13, 2012 at 11:01 PM
I wouldnt mind the number Terry.
Hi
The only numbers I can see are
5225-14 :48.
Searching the web for this number came up with a John Deere tractor Alternator?
Robin took my OKA to an auto electrical business in Kalgoorlie to have the winch wired up and this larger alternator fitted.
He may remember the business if the numbers are no good.
Terry
August 14, 2012 at 9:30 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Hi Terry,
OK thanks, did a quick search and couldnt find it. I will look a little more....
thks OBJ
August 14, 2012 at 9:38 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Moose2367
Member
Posts: 110
Outback Jack at August 13, 2012 at 10:09 PM
I agree with Moose, and maybe he can share some web sites???
I had plans on doing a documnet with a heap of part numbers etc, but had a laptop die and lost a lot of it electronically. I have a paper trail of it, somewhere!!!
I'm in the process of leaving the OKA here in Vic right now, i bought a Falcon RTV and am heading to the high country this week deer hunting, then to Bundaberg to earn some $.
The only things i have off the top of my head are the rotors and wheels studs.
Rotors are Aimco part number 5564 or NAPA 4885843.
Dimensions are
8 x 6.5stud pattern
Diam -12.874in (327mm)
Hat height - 3.07087in (78mm)
Disc thick - 1.53453in (39mm)
Center Bore - 4.94in (125.5mm)
They are available on Ebay USA for around $30US plus freight, compared to the $180 plus freight i was charged, exact same part number stamped in the rotor edge.
The wheel studs i got from Snake Racing, part number S796, $10 each compared to $27 i was charged somewhere else, plus free post from Snake Racing. They are a bit longer though, perfect for alloys and the thicker centre bore section.
When i find the rest i'll put them up too.
August 14, 2012 at 10:35 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Cheers for that Moose, perhaps start a new thread for websites/suppliers.
I was wondering if this alternator would fit
mascostartersandalternators.com/Sunshop/...product_detail&p=771
August 14, 2012 at 10:56 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Or a 200 amp Sucker
www.ase-supply.com/BOSCH_AL9962SB_12V_20...or_p/rb-al9962sb.htm
BTW they have Pollack valves for 50 odd dollars
--
August 14, 2012 at 11:25 PM Flag Quote & Reply
Dandj
Member
Posts: 367
Jack, re the power requirements.
A 200 amp alternator will suck only the power from the engine that you demand from it. It may have a 200 amp capacity but with no or light load it will only take the power needed to rotate it.
200 amp equates to 2.8kw and would need dual belts if you really needed it's full output (ie serious welding or driving a microwave via a large inverter), but these would only be for a short period anyway.
So it's probably not worth worrying about the engine power requirements and focus on matching the alternator capacity to your electrical needs. We have a 120 amp alternator and it never provides more than 20-30 amp for normal battery charging/fridge.
The real advantage of a high capacity alternator is that it will be more reliable at lower outputs than a smaller one since it will be built tougher.
--
David and Janet Ribbans, Oka 148
August 15, 2012 at 8:56 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Alister McBride
Member
Posts: 97
I've setup a 110A ford EA (or EB can't remember now) alternator (from the wreckers) above the engine running off the auxillary pulley behind the fan therefore giving around 195A total possible. I'm still in the build phase of the vehicle so can't try it yet but found it good to have two alternators on a previous vehicle, one for the vehicle batteries and one for the camper batteries... Also, one can serve as a backup for the other when one breaks down! Oh, i did feel the need to upgrade the fan pulley to a double setup to drive the extra load as one belt couldn't drive 195 Amps of charge and the fan in total. Instead of buying a pulley i just machined off the single pulley and shrunk a standard (but machined) double pulley over the top. Probably worth buying one if you can, bit of a PITA!
Oh, and while i was there i machined up a replacement for the rediculously priced fan/idler pulley bearing setup on the front of the engine! I think it was around $700 new and non standard bearings, couldn't replace them!! So i machined up a housing and shaft and ran two $6.50 standard bearings. A day of machining and about $30 in total for materials and bearings, i thought well worth the experiment. Will let all know how it goes...
August 15, 2012 at 9:49 AM
Outback Jack
Member
Posts: 381
Jeez a lot of you guys have a lot of talent. I am no good with welders etc etc. I think the Duramax may come with two alternators as an option.
I guess its not a bad idea as you mentioned. One starting circuit and one other.
August 15, 2012 at 11:19 AM Flag Quote & Reply
Alister McBride
Member
Posts: 97
Most of the brackets were on mine for a previous air compressor so i've just modified for an alternator. Interesting point though... (sorry a little off topic!) Have you thought about the cummins? Seems like it might be a better option in my opinion from looking at Paul Knott's just completed recently. A bit more space in the engine bay so WHEN something goes wrong it can be fixed easily... Anyway, maybe a brand new engine won't go wrong
August 15, 2012 at 7:39 PM
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
Oka148 profile here.
Visit our technical and travel blogs: here.
Last Edit: 30 Oct 2012 13:27 by dandjcr.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.