Dana 60 spindle
- mort
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There is a need for 2 x front spindles due to I would guess is from the bearings seizing spinning on the spindle so my question is as there is a few models of Dana 60 is the spindle the same in all models or is the H/D different to the Std 60 and does anyone have a part number.
Thank you
Martyn
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- Dean and Kaye Howells
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I had #413 down at my local alignment place last week to get a measure on the front end parameters. Both sides were -ve camber so did the maths and got some alignment wedges from Oka Paul and fitted them today. Back into +ve territory (hopefully) so back down to get re-checked during the week. Amazingly all front wheel bearings OK after last years several hundred Km jaunt through deep water between Boulia and Winton though axle to stub axle seals worn out (and replaced). Fortunately wheel bearing to stub axle interface still OK though inner seal area looks a bit ordinary but still seals OK . I don't know the difference between 'normal and 'HD' or if the Dana 60 Oka spindles are a unique offering but mine are still OK with maybe a speedi sleeve down the track.
Went for a test drive afterwards and all seems good so another win hopefully
Deano
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- dandjcr
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That was in 2009 and they are still fine.
See my write up here .
David
David and Janet Ribbans - Oka 148
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- PeteFox
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Pete Fox OKA266 MultiCab
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www.byles.net/www.oka4wd.com/forum/membe...oka-266?limitstart=0
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- mort
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I did have the part number and spec for that spindle but what confused me was someone told the person I was helping that the spindle was different to std which seemed logical so that was the reason for the question but on doing more checking it appears incorrect so we will go with std spindle.
Thank you
Martyn (its an OKA thing)
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- mort
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yes had to check bearings on another OKA that had sat for some time. the rear were ok but front had water in from worn seals which had allowed bearings to rust and seize the result when driven short distance was damage to spindle not much but enough to need replacing to ensure longevity.
The only way to stop happening in the future is keep away from water but I dont think that is going to happen so do the maintenance when required.
Martyn (its an OKA thing)
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- Peter Davis
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Question
Oka workshop manual says spindle torque is 105 lb/ft and Dana 60 workshop manual says torque to 50 lb/ft rotate hub and back off 1/4 turn. Some of the bearing manufacturers say 200 lb/ft to seat then back off 1 turn, then 50 lb/ft then back off.
Is the 105 lb/ft for the second nut or seating torque then the 50 lb/ft?
Does it make any difference if the wheel is on?
Cheers Peter
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- Alister McBride
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I imagine OKA needed to specify a torque setting regardless of standard operating procedures...
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- Dean and Kaye Howells
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It's worth noting that the spindle retaining nut(s) method used in the Oka is different to that shown in in the Dana supplement in the Oka manual. The video Alister has posted also shows this (Dana) method.
The Dana spindle retaining method shown (and in the Oka manual supplement) uses a nut/plate/pin method whereas the Oka uses the more 'old school' system of using 2 nuts and a keyed tab washer. This may account for the differences in specified torque settings.
There are a number of different methods of achieving the correct adjustment. At the end of the day what's required is a nut torque that is not so tight that it causes the bearing rollers to bind nor so loose that the wheel/hub wobbles on the spindle. I find it a lot easier to adjust with the wheel on as it allows easier spinning of the wheel/hub/bearing assembly when setting up. It also allows easier and more sensitive feel for movement when adjusting the spindle nut.
This is how I do it.
Do up the first spindle nut whilst spinning the wheel in its forward drive direction until you can just start to feel it bind. Stop spinning and back off the nut then do up hand tight only. Don't rotate the wheel between backing off and hand tightening. Put on a new tab washer and outer nut and do it up to 100 ftlbs whilst gently spinning the wheel. If the wheel starts to bind before you get to 100 ftlbs (which it can do if the threads are worn) then back off the inner nut a whisker and tighten again. If you can still feel slack when rocking the wheel then tighten the inner nut a whisker and re-tighten. You know you've got it right when there's no rocking movement in the wheel when held at the top and vigorously rocked and the wheel spins freely. Then lock over the tabs, (which is easier said than done) and you're good to go.
I'm not saying it's the best or only way but this is how I do it and I haven't lost a wheel bearing yet.
IMO it's very important to use new lock washers and make sure the lock nuts are dead smooth on their faces. Any imperfection in the mating surfaces can lead to loosening of the lock nut and a major failure which is exactly what happened to this G60 Patrol many years ago. In particular try to avoid using a cold chisel on the nuts as the scarring it causes can lead to incorrect tensioning.
This G60 Patrol (and many other 4WD's) have the same spindle nut set up as the Oka. It is particularly important to 'get it right' on the LHS wheels as the normal rotation of the wheel can tend to undo the spindle nuts.
Deano
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- Holmz
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Those look easier...?
www.stage8.com/off-road-locking-fastener...k-locking-fasteners/
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- Tony Lee
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Tony
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- Alister McBride
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- mort
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Martyn
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- Holmz
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- Dean and Kaye Howells
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Crikey Mort, I reckon that's a bit 'opportunistic' to say the least. The last pair I got from Oka Paul cost me $9.50 each +GST.
I agree with Alister, the Stage 8's looked like a good thing but I chose to stay with the original method on the KISS principle. There's certainly a knack involved in getting the outer tab bent over but once sorted and practiced not too bad.
Another (perhaps theoretical) concern was if a wheel came adrift such as with the G60 and it injured/killed some one or did damage and the investigation showed that a non genuine engineered after market part had failed it could get real messy.
Deano
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